Malacca – My Favourite Malaysian City

Malacca – My Favourite Malaysian City

by Altaf Shaikh

Being a marine engineer I was a regular visitor of two of the Malaysian ports: Port Kelang near Kuala Lumpur and Penang, whenever my ship passed through the Malacca Straits. Malacca Strait is a narrow passage of sea in between Sumatra Island of Indonesia and West Malaysia. It connects Indian Ocean with South China Sea.
Then oneday I left sea life and for shore job I was going to Malacca for the first time to serve the Malaysian Marine Academy. I had no idea of this city except that “it is a sleepy town” as mentioned by a Singaporean who was travelling with me in the same plane.

It was some 30 years ago. After landing in Malacca I had love at first sight with this city. I stayed in Malacca for some 8 years continuously and then till today I keep on visiting city which is like my home town Hyderabad. Being a regular visitor of this beautiful historical city Malacca, I can assure you that for a traveler with mind open to new experiences, Malacca can be rewardingly different, even subtly exciting.

Malaysia’s oldest town, Malacca is unique in that it has experienced the major phases of the country’s history. It was ruled in turn by the majestic Malay Sultanate, spice- hungry Portuguese, grim Dutch reformists, and the colonial English before reverting into Malay hands. No matter where you wander in Malacca, there is always something new to discover, for amongst the narrow lanes of the old city, wedged between the goldsmiths, noodle makers, cobblers and coffee shops are some of Malaysia’s oldest temples, mosques, churches and Chinese town houses.

Malacca was once an obscure fishing village where the Sumatran prince Parmeswara came in 1396 for seeking refuge from the wrath of certain Javanese war lords. He build the city named after the Melaka tree. Little he realized that it would become a dynamic nerve centre of Industrial growth.

The state of Malacca (Malay word Melaka) is located on the west coast of Peninsula Malaysia, facing the Straits of Malacca. With an area of only 1658 square kilometers, it is divided into three districts, namely, Alor Gajah, Malacca Tengah (Central) and Jasin. It is the third smallest state in Malaysia, yet the history of the country stems from this ancient trading port. Located at the mouth of the Malacca River on the all-important maritime routes transversing the Indian Ocean and the South China Sea, Malacca was a harbour favoured by Indians, Javanese, Arabs, Chinese and Siamese in eternal search of profit, be it through trade in spices or outright piracy. The sailors referred to it as “the place where monsoon meets’. Tea and silk from China were exchanged for cotton, opium and gold from the West and India. Exotic spices, brass, tin, rice etc added to the list. So profitable was the growing seaport that the Ming dynasty Emperor of China in 1408, initiated trade arrangements that resulted in even greater prosperity and prestige for the Malay Kingdom. By mid 15th century, according to Tom Pires, at least 84 languages were spoken in Malacca. Among the various trading communities the largest comprised of Gujratis from India. However there were also groups of indigenous settlements existing, such as, ‘Kampong Cina’ (Chinese village), ‘Kampong Keling’ (Indian village) and Kampong Jawa (Javanese village). The Gujratis were infact instrumental for bringing Islam to Peninsula Malaya. In 1414 Parmeswara embraced Islam faith and took the title Iskandar Shah and the Malays also took to Islam.

Parmeswara’s son Seri Maharajah upon ascending the throne in 1424, assumed the title ‘Sultan’, thus becoming the first ruler in the region to do so. What followed was the reign of an enlightened sultanate – aided by Bendaharas or Prime Ministers (the most popular being Tun Perak) – that practiced a policy of Laissez faire which served as a beacon to foreign capital and resources. Immigrant workers, traders and investors assumed leading positions in the development of the kingdom’s mineral and agricultural resources.

The first record of official ties with China was when Admiral Yin Ching landed in 1403. This was followed by return visit by Parmeswara. A few years later Admiral Cheng Ho arrived with the decree from the Emperor recognizing Malacca as a protectorate of China. This served well for Malacca which continued to prosper without the threats of attack by other powers, especially Siam (present day Thailand). The Sultans of Malacca, after the death of Iskandar Shah maintained close ties with China. These ties strengthened with the marriage of Sultan Mansur Shah to the Chinese princess Hang Li Po. The Sultan gave her ‘Bukit Cina’ (a hilly area) where she lived with her entourage of 500 young ladies. Today the largest Chinese cemetery outside China is on ‘Bukit Cina’ with some tomb stones dating back to the Ming dynasty. The rich legacy of the Chinese have been preserved by the evolution of a unique community called the Baba Nyonyas who incorporated the life styles of the Malys into their culture.

Malacca fell to the Portuguese, her first European conquerors, after a bloody siege in 1511. There were to rule for 130 years. Their chief rivals, the Dutch, were only able to break this tenacious grip after prolonged warfare that ranged intermittently from 1597 to 1641, when the Portuguese forces finally succumbed. Dutch rule was to last for 154 year until the British took over in 1795. Dutch left very little of their cultural influence behind. Stadthuys and Christ church building are lasting testimonies of their presence. Malacca had by then declined as an international port of call and a principle spice depot and was to remain an Imperial Colony until 1957 when she was granted independence. The English left an unforgettable impression on Malacca, with its schools, administration, law and Protestant missionaries. Many old street names of Malacca are after British resident governors and prominent civil servants. Malacca joined the Federation of Malaysia in 1963.

On April 15, 1989, in commemoration of its 600th birthday, Malacca was conferred the historic city status by the Yang di Pertua Negri Melaka (The Head of State appointed by the Supreme Sovereign of Malaysia: His Majesty the king) and by the United Nations.

No doubt Malacca is a historical city. The best way to fully appreciate the historical perspective of this charming city is on foot or by trishaw- bicycle with a side car. Standing among the majestic ruins of the once mighty Portuguese fortress, A Famosa, or the Dutch stronghold of St. John’s Fort reminds the old times. Atop St’ Paul’s Hill is the famous St’ Paul’s church, a chapel dedicated to Mary and the base for spreading Catholicism in South-East and East Asia. Father Francis Xavier, the ‘ Apostle of the East’ would find accommodation here on his rare visits to Malacca. The church briefly held his remains in 1553. A Portuguese settlement of less than a thousand still reside in Malacca. Descendents of early Portuguese settlers celebrate the Festival of San Pedro – the patron saint of their fisherman- in June with feasts, songs and dance, and a display of brightly decorated boats.

The Dutch Stadthuys building once housed the Dutch governor and their entourage. It is believed to be the oldest Dutch building in the Far East. It was completed in the 1650s. Among the precious few relics that date back to Malacca’s early history are two famous wells whose waters carry legendary properties. The Sultan’s well (Hang Li Poh’s Well), located at the foot of Bukit Cina (China Hill), dates back to 1458 and was constructed for the usage of Princess Hang Li Poh, the daughter of the Chinese Emperor, who married Sultan. It is believed that whoever drinks from its waters is fated to return to Malacca in his life time.

Hang Tuah’s well is the well of the great Malay warrior Hang Tuah, who brought renown to Malacca during the Malacca Sultanate period. Located 4 kms from the centre of the city at Kampong Duyung, the well is believed to be sacred and its waters to contain medicinal properties to cure ailments.

The intermarriages between Chinese and Malays give birth to the Peranakan culture. The Baba (males) Nyonyas (females) Heritage – a short walk down jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock – is a museum that gives a clear idea of fabulous merging of cultures. The oldest Chinese temple in South East Asia is the Cheong Hoon Teng Temple. Founded in 1650s, it is a marvelous example of South Chinese architecture.

Kampong Hulu Mosque is another favourite attraction among locals and tourists alike. Situated infront of the Stadthuys, the original mosque was destroyed by the Portuguese in 1511 and rebuilt in 1728 by Datu Shamsuddin, making it the oldest mosque in the country.

Beyond being a showcase of Malaysia’s past, Malacca is quickly gaining a well-deserved reputation as a profitable investors’ centre among a major financiers from Europe, the United States of America, Australia, Taiwan and Japan. It is undergoing a new phase in its traditional economic life geared towards greater growth and progress. All these add to what make Malacca what it is today, Malaysia’s historical and industrial city.

altafshaikh2005@gmail.com
altafshaikh2004@yahoo.co.uk

Altaf Shaikh is a famous scholar, a travelogue writer and a well known marine engineer.
Born in 1944, Altaf Shaikh got his early education from Hala, then from Cadet College Petaro. He studied Marine Engineering at Marine Academy Chittagong, East Pakistan (now Bangladesh ) and did post graduation from the World Maritime University , Malmo , Sweden .
After sailing as Chief Engineer on various types of ships for some 15 years, he served Malaysian and then Pakistan Marine Academy as Head of Marine Engineering Dept. for some 20 years. He is author of more than 70 books mostly travelogues in Sindhi and in Urdu. He is also a regular columnist of daily newspapers of Pakistan, Malaysia & Japan.

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